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KMID : 0604520050310040337
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2005 Volume.31 No. 4 p.337 ~ p.342
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How Skin Care Ingredient Concentrations Can Modulate the Effect of polyols and Oils on Skin Moisturization and Skin Surface Roughness
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Nam Kae-Won
Kim Seung-Hoon
Kim Eun-Joo
Kim Jin-Han
Chae Byung-Keun
Lee Hae-Kwang
Moon Sung-Joon
Kang Hak-Hee
Chang Ih-Seop
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Abstract
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The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of different skin care ingredient concentrations on the effect of polyols and oils on the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils were essential ingredients to make a skin care formulation. But these were still not understood how much concentration(s) were tested on human skin in the aspect of efficacy and sensory. We studied to examine various concentrations of ingredient by cosmetic companies using noninvasive methods. Polyols were composed of glycerol and butylene glycol (BG) as 1:1 ratio, and oils were hydrogenated polydecene, cetyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate (PTO(R), Stearinerie Dubois Fils Co., France) as 1:1:1 ratio. All compounds were tested 0{sim}27%dml Polyols and 0{sim}35%dml oils in O/W emulsions. We investigated the effect of water contents and the effect of stratum corneum roughness in forearm skin after application of compounds. Water contents of the skin measured by skin capacitance and skin surface roughness measured visual scoring of skin surface biopsy through the scanning electron microscopy. Water contents of the skin were highly related to amount of polyols (to 20%) and oils (to 12%). Correlation coefficients were 0.971 and 0.985 respectively (p<0.01), 2 h after application. Skin surface roughness was positively correlated with polyol contents in concentration dependent manner, and depend on oils up to 6%. The ratio of coefficient was 2.5 to 1 (polyol to oils) by regression analysis. Further studies will be conducted with other ingredients such as surfactants, lipids and aqueous materials, and with ether methods for noninvasive measurement.
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KEYWORD
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water contents, skin roughness, skin surface biopsy, polyol, oil and formulation
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